An exclamation mark (!) inverts a pin. The other symbol (^) enables a pull up resistor on a pin, which is needed for things like endstops or buttons. These can also be combined.
PB0 is just the name of one pin. PC0 would be a completely different pin.
Different Microcontrollers have different naming conventions, that is why you sometimes see names like PB10 and on other controllers it might be GPIO10.
Thank you! This helped a lot.
Now, in the pinout for my old SKR v1.4 FAN0 is "12/24v" and "2.3", while FAN1 is "GND" and "12/24v".
What are the difference between FAN0 and FAN1 port on the motherboard?
(I’ve had a working 3D printer for 6 days, and have no experience with anything 3D printing related, so therefore these noob questions. )
Here comes the fun part.
The Biqu B1 has all it’s wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.
On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.
In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:
[fan_generic hotend_fan] #use for testing of hotend fan pin: PC7pin: PC7
[fan] #part fan pin: PC6Pin: PC6
This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.
This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.
When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.
The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I’ve added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.
Ok, let’s look into it. (you can also send me your printer.cfg if you want)
The Mini e3 v3 has the following switchable outputs:
HB - PC9
E0 - PC8
FAN0 - PC6
FAN1 - PC7
FAN2 - PB15
Keep in mind that they all switch ground only. 24V is always there.
You can use all of them for whatever you want, Klipper is very flexible here. HB is your heated bed, no questions here. E0 should be connected to your Hotted board HE0.
I don’t know which of the fans on your board does what, you may need to connect them all and see which one does what (I guess your hotend does not have 3 fans). in the end you want [hotend_fan] to be the one calling the hotend (not the part!). the [fan] will be controlled by the slicer (overhangs, bridges and so on).
DCIN on your board should ideally be connected directly to the PSU, you do not want it to be switched.
An exclamation mark (!) inverts a pin. The other symbol (^) enables a pull up resistor on a pin, which is needed for things like endstops or buttons. These can also be combined.
PB0 is just the name of one pin. PC0 would be a completely different pin.
Different Microcontrollers have different naming conventions, that is why you sometimes see names like PB10 and on other controllers it might be GPIO10.
See also the documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html
Thank you! This helped a lot.
Now, in the pinout for my old SKR v1.4 FAN0 is
"12/24v" and "2.3", while FAN1 is"GND" and "12/24v".What are the difference between FAN0 and FAN1 port on the motherboard?
(I’ve had a working 3D printer for 6 days, and have no experience with anything 3D printing related, so therefore these noob questions. )
Glad to be of help!
The FAN1 in this case can not be controlled by software. It will always be on as soon as the printer is powered.
Here comes the fun part.
The Biqu B1 has all it’s wires to the hotend via a USB-C cable. All wires from the motherboard goes to a card in the back of the printer, and fom there is a USB-C to a card in the hotend. This card splits up to TH0, CNCFAN, CNCAN1, FAN2 and HE0. Even power to the nozzle heater goes in the USB-C.
On the old SKR v1.4, the wire labeled DCIN were connected to FAN1 (GND - 12/24v), and FAN0 were connected to FAN0 (2.3 - 12/24v).
On the new SKR MINI V3 the DCIN wire is connected to FAN1 (12/24v - PC7), and FAN0 wire to FAN0 (12/24v - PC6).
The wire DCIN is not from PSU, but gives power to the card in the hotend.
In the printer.cfg all of fan-stuff are commented out, and the only thing is:
[fan_generic hotend_fan] #use for testing of hotend fan pin: PC7 pin: PC7 [fan] #part fan pin: PC6 Pin: PC6This gives me sliders in Klipper for PC6 and PC7, and I can set FAN1 to 100%.
This should in (my) theory give power to the card in the hotend. But when i slide FAN0 in Klipper nothing happens with the fans.
When i disconnect the wires to the nozzle heater from the motherboard i now have about 24 volts on those wires, and this happens without heating the heater.
The reason for me starting this project was that one day i just got error message when heating the nozzle. First i bought a new heater, thermistor and the block they are mounted in. This did not help. So, now the motherboard is replaced and I’ve added a Raspberry PI with Klipper to the setup, and still no joy.
Ok, let’s look into it. (you can also send me your printer.cfg if you want) The Mini e3 v3 has the following switchable outputs:
Keep in mind that they all switch ground only. 24V is always there.
You can use all of them for whatever you want, Klipper is very flexible here. HB is your heated bed, no questions here. E0 should be connected to your Hotted board HE0. I don’t know which of the fans on your board does what, you may need to connect them all and see which one does what (I guess your hotend does not have 3 fans). in the end you want [hotend_fan] to be the one calling the hotend (not the part!). the [fan] will be controlled by the slicer (overhangs, bridges and so on).
DCIN on your board should ideally be connected directly to the PSU, you do not want it to be switched.
don’t worry, we will get you back printing.