My dryer has a PETG profile that uses 69C, I usually dry it for 10-12 hours just to be sure.

Have you dried it?

What about PCTG? Pretty much for anything that I’d need more strength than regular PETG I could go with PETG-CF or PCTG. The only thing that can force me to use ABS/ASA is the need for (more) temperature resistance.

Often there aren’t definitive answers, and drying never hurts;)

Have you tried drying it? Sometimes filament is not dried out of the box.

That’s pretty hot for PLA

I have no experience with it, but this is why I’ve mentioned it - for ma y the hardware is already there, or they can upgrade to it and enjoy the additional benefit;)

Some of the newer iPhones feature a LIDAR scanner and there are store apps that can use it to scan too

The K1 series has graphite bushings on the X axis which should be self lubricating and should not be greased.

How do you attach it?

I am too, and it is really easy to do so. Look up “Linux cpu governor”. NUT (which is the most common UPS management software for Linux) can execute commands, start timers at different events from UPS.

Yeah, that explains stuff. I thought you might have had some stuff on Pi that you could’ve been running on the PC. In that case I’d recommend that you run the NUT on RPi, and set it to pause print on a power failure, possibly change CPU scaling (i.e. to “powersave” CPU governor if you’re running Linux) on the mini PC, or even possibly shut it down in an event when the power outage lasts longer than a minute.

Whatever would support the combined max wattage of the devices you will connect to it. Ideally something that can handle 50-100% more power. You can control some UPSes via USB or network, so you can hook it up to that mini pc or Pi (why are they separate?) and run NUT on it. You could technically pause a print/shut down a computer/Pi if an outage is more than x seconds to reduce power usage and get through one that you otherwise couldn’t.

Wow

Wait what?

It’s called that in the printer.cfg and the binary files that drive it are named so too. Sensors like CR-touch/BL-Touch/BIQU microprobes tend to be more accurate and much faster. And cartographer modules are even better, but the stock motherboard can barely handle them.

That’s the standard way of bed leveling in K1 series. The one that uses nozzle and sensors in the bed, which is slow, not too accurate, leaves imprints on build plates, and filament blobs of the nozzle is not wiped/cold.

Np. Happens to me all the time too;) This was important to me because I’m using a biqu probe instead of PRTouch so I needed to get root access so I could configure it BEFORE calibrating K1 :)

https://guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/firmwares/install-and-update-rooted-firmware-k1/ „Skip the Startup Self-Check”

Guilouz’s Wiki also has some info on how to skip the initial calibration. Useful if you need to root it first and adjust stuff before doing anything else.